I’ve come to an agua caliente – hot spring – several kilometers off 54, which is the ‘highway’ from Zacatecas to Guadalajara. This stretch of road, after Villanueva, is definitely the worst road I’ve been on for a major highway.
Still, it is very drivable, the potholes have been filled so they’re visible but not deep. Most of the road is flat through the plain between the mountain range. Then the road begins curving and ascending.
I know I'm taking a chance, heading into the mountains as the sun is descending quickly. I see black rain clouds in part of the sky, but it doesn’t rain.
I find the turn off for the "Balneario" and proceed several kilometers over a white powdered sand and rock road that is in pretty good shape for such a minor road, but I can’t go over 5 miles an hour.
It goes up and down and around, through mostly fenced land with cows and cactus. I – barely – am able to pass a couple of vehicles coming towards me. They all assure me I’m heading in the right direction.
Just before I finally get there, I have to drive across a little river. Then I have to make a right onto another road and into the grounds, which are almost deserted. I speak with a womon who is hanging out by the bathrooms, waiting for her daughter.
She points out the hot spring and tells me I should park anywhere. There’s a little store about the size of 2 small bathrooms with mostly drinks and a grumpy old man there tells me I can park anywhere. There are several picnic tables and barbeque pits scattered around under nice bushy tall trees.
I have my choice as no one else is inside this park area. I pick a tree and then head in the direction of the hot spring. I hear voices and sure enough, there are several men in the spring.
One is especially scary. He’s wearing black sunglasses even though it is dark by now – and he’s from the u.s., Chicago he says although I see his Arkansas plates on his car. He’s the closest I’ve seen/been to who feels like he could be involved in drugs or gangs!
There are about 4 or 5 other guys in the water. They invite me to feel it, and it is hot! I go back to the truck and change into my suit and head back.
The water feels good. Hector wants to speak english with me – there’s one in every crowd, eh? I tell him I want to speak Spanish.
Hector tells me there are 60 people who live around here. I ask if everyone is a rancher and he says yes, although he only has two cows and one horse. He doesn’t own land, only the house. I have to find out more tomorrow.
I hope this was a good decision. I eat my last tamale and climb into my top bed tontie!
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