Leaving Guadalajara

Where are the womyn who stand on the side of the road, over huge black pots steaming with delicious tamales?

Taking their place are men standing over blue and white coolers, selling their tamales. I drive by one such man and his cooler at the corner and go around several blocks before I can return and buy tamales from him.

They are 10 pesos each so I bargain, 3 for $25 pesos. He ends up selling me 4 for $35 pesos – and I tip him 5 pesos. The tamales are scrumptious, fat, stuffed with jalapenos and queso. I can not decide, as no one seems to be making tamales elotes, if it is better for me to eat cheese or chicken.

I am heading to Chapala, what I’ve read is the largest fresh water lake in México, or maybe only in this area. It reminds me of Lake Tahoe a little, but not as big. It is definitely huge, in the midst of mountains, but there is no pine or cedar forest or oak trees around it.

And I think, unlike Lake Tahoe, most of it is visible from a mountain rise. And it is huge.

Chapala is small with houses scattered on the hills before entering just a couple of really busy streets of the centro. Small shops with grass roofs line the pier that borders the lake here in this bustling little tourist town.

I want to explore but I’m torn again – I should ask for veggie oil, I want a coconut, I want to walk around but I’m worried people are starting their celebrating early – and I’m worried about drunk drivers.

I drive on to the next town, Ajijic, which is supposed to be gay and lesbian ‘friendly’. The main and only paved road is heavily populated with difficult visible access to the water, muchos gringos, many gated communities, walls, fences, and small, narrow steep dirt and stone streets crowded with close housing, that may or may not lead to parking by the water.

I’m torn for I want to stop and explore, maybe locate some lesbians, maybe fill my depleted fresh veggie and fruit supplies, but I’m still stuffed from consuming 4 queso and chili tamales – and it is after 2pm by the time I mosey through here.

The issue of finding a good place to park for the nite before celebrants pour onto the streets consumes most of my energy and focus now.