I decide to keep driving around the lake to see what I can find minus tourists and traffic. The north west part of the lake seems to be bordered by mega-farming including grape arbors inside plastic ‘green’ houses interspersed with cattle ranching.
Many little towns spring up around the lake. It is difficult to see if the cobblestone dirt roads lead to the water as there is a steep drop as soon as the road begins.
I find several towns that draw me but I keep going.
Then I enter this town and a longing fills me. I think this is where I should be. I see the town has grown up on both sides of the paved road. The paved road has widened into 2 lanes in each direction with a small medium in the middle.
There are vendors of course lined along this road, some wave enthusiastically, others stare. I turn off toward the lake onto a dirt and stone road. As I drive, I see the town is really huge on this side – and I can see many houses and churches up the hill on the other side as well.
People stare at me, bursting into smiles when I greet them. I ask many times how to get to the water and am given several conflicting directions. Where the hell is the water?
The roads are really rough, the houses really close together, the tree branches and wires so low I’m worried about driving through.
After much driving around, I see purple graffiti on a wall opposite a school ground that says “lesbiana” and other writing I can’t read. I stop several more times and try to talk with people, consider buying something to eat even though I am still full from the 4 delicious tamales I scarfed down when driving out of Guadalajara this morning.
I finally give up and go back to the main road. There is another town I saw before this one, with a pier and benches. I head back for that town.
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